For most, driving is exhausting, that is, until they drive on Scenic Byway 12. Known as the “All American Road”, this 124-mile stretch of tarmac is a geologic rollercoaster that passes through the heart of the desert Southwest. The road connects Zion National Park and Capitol Reef, making the drive a spectacular adventure in itself. So, if you are planning a trip to Utah’s “Mighty 5, “don’t just rush.
The Route: A Journey Through Time
The adventure typically begins near Zion’s East Entrance, meandering through the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel before hitting US-89 and finally merging onto Byway 12. From there, the ascent begins from sagebrush flats at 4,000 feet to alpine forests at 9,000 feet.
Key Stop: Red Canyon & Bryce Canyon
Before you even start the journey, you will pass through Red Canyon. The road tunnels through the massive red rock fins, a sight to behold. Many mistake it for Bryce Canyon, but “real” Bryce is a few miles further. Even if you don’t plan to stop by at night, a quick hike to Mossy Cave offers a perfect glimpse of the hoodoos.
The “Hogback”: Driving the Spine of the World
This stretch of the drive is not for the faint-hearted. Known as the Hogback, the section lies between the towns of Escalante and Boulder. The road passes through a narrow ridge where the land drops away sharply on both sides into deep sandstone canyons. No guardrails, just you, the pavement and a 360-degree view of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.
Hidden Gems Along the Way
This route has so many gems to behold and experience. Here are the “must-see’ attractions
- Lower Calf Creek Falls: For adventure enthusiasts, Lower Calf Creek Falls is a 126-foot waterfall hidden inside a desert alcove. A beautiful and pristine oasis right in the middle of the scorched red rock. It is a 6-mile round-trip hike.
- Kiva Koffeehouse: A halt at this architectural marvel built into the side of a cliff is a perfect place to grab a latte and enjoy the view of the Escalante River canyon
- Anasazi State Park (Boulder): A quick pullover to explore the remains of the ancient Puebloan village that was thriving nearly 1000 years ago.
- Boulder Mountain: As you drive towards Capitol Reef, the desert vanishes, replaced by quaking aspens and lush forests. At the Larb Hollow Overlook, enjoy the panoramic view across the Waterpocket Fold and all the way to the Henry Mountains.
The Grand Finale: Capitol Reef
The thrill ends as you descend into Torrey, the gateway to the Capitol Reef National Park. Where Zion is defined by its sandstone cliffs, Capitol is known for its Waterpocket Fold – a 100-mile “wrinkle” in the Earth’s crust.
As you pull into the park, the road is replaced by peaceful orchards of Fruita, in contrast to the high-speed thrill of Byway 12. It is the perfect place to rest and enjoy a homemade pie from the Gifford House, and contemplate that you have just finished what many call the most thrilling and beautiful drive in North America.
Pro Tips:
- Check the Weather: With an elevation of over 9,000 feet, don’t be surprised if you encounter snow in the mountain passes, even in summer or fall, while the desert below is 80°F.
- Fuel Up: Fuel up, as gas stations are rare between Escalante and Torrey.
- Take Your Time: Don’t hesitate to pull over to enjoy unforgettable moments.
- Permits: If you are likely to hike into the slot of Escalante (like Zebra Slot or Peek-a-Boo), check in at the Interagency Visitor Center in Escalante for current weather and flash flood risks.
The Don’ts: Avoiding the Pitfalls
- Don’t rush it: While the map says it is a 3-hour drive, that’s only if you are in a hurry. If you are here to explore, enjoy, and behold the beauty, it is best to reserve at least 5 to 6 hours, or better yet, two days.
- Don’t rely on “Open” signs: Many businesses in Escalante or Boulder are seasonal or have odd hours. It is better to call ahead if you plan to pull over at a special restaurant on this route.
- Don’t underestimate the “Open Range”: The majority of Byway 12 is open range, meaning cows have the right of way. It is best to avoid driving at night if possible for any disaster.
- Don’t ignore your brakes: When driving a heavy vehicle or an RV, use your lower gears, especially on steep descents, to avoid burning out your brake pads halfway down a canyon.
- Don’t forget your layers: The landscapes change quickly, fluctuating between 4,000 and 9000 feet in elevation. It can be 80°F in the desert canyons and 45°F on the mountain pass.